Data: G2X Install

A while back I bought a gently used Racepak G2X.  These seems like a simple task to install: connect power, ground, and an RPM wire…done.  Well, I suppose it could be done that way.  But, I want to be able to turn it on and off without starting the car.  That requires a switch, and an unswitched wire.  In addition, while I was in the dash wiring things up, I figured I might as well pre-wire for the other bits I plan to add to the car: Camera, and cool shirt.  I plan on making the cool shirt flow adjustable, so I need an on/off plus an adjust.  Finally, in order to synchronize data and video you need to have a signal in both.  I plan on hooking up steering/throttle/brake sensors to the G2X, so I’m going to hook up a light to the brake switch and put it in view of the camera.  I don’t need or want this light flashing all the time.  Once I’ve provided a good sync to the video and data, the light can be switched off.  So, one more switch.  That makes 5 switches.

First I pulled the center dash panel out and carefully marked the switch locations for the 5 switches.  I bought these:  A nice stiff action, push on terminals (with a solder hole if you prefer), and can switch up to 15Amps.  Then I ran a power wire across one terminal on each switch accept the center switch (this switch will be for the sync light), and the far left switch (for the cool shirt speed adjust).  Second, I wired a green wire, white wire, and a black wire to the each of the necessary switches.  Looking at the front of the panel the switches from left to right are:

1. Cool shirt adjust—black wire to cool shirt motor.

2. Cool shirt on/off —provides power to #1 above.

3. Data/Video sync – unwired.

4. Video on/off – Green wire.

5 Data on/off – White wire.


All of this is “planning” except for the data hookup.  Additionally, I put bullet style connectors on the ends of these wires.  That way I can remove this unit without removing the rest of the wiring.  Next, I needed to mount the G2X.  There are a limited number of mounting locations that are out of the way, centrally located, and level.  Since the G2x has a 2-axis accelerometer it must be mounted flat.  The transmission tunnel is the iideal locations, but even In the limited driving I’ve done, I’ve noted that the trans tunnel gets pretty hot.  Besides, the G2X is about a 1/2” too wide to mount directly to the surface.  So, I decided to make some mounting brackets out of 1/2” aluminum square stock.

I removed one side of the stock to make C-channel, and drilled an array of holes in the vertical portion of the C.  This allows some air to flow around the bracket.  The more the air can move…the less it will heat the G2x.  I screwed these brackets to the tunnel with self drilling/tapping screws.  Eventually, I’m going to put some heat barrier (like this: on the underside of the trans tunnel, and the underside of the G2x.  Even still, with it elevated by this half an inch…with the airflow in the car I went for a 30 minute test drive and the underside of the G2X was barely warm (even though the metal surface was quite hot).



Once I got it mounted I could run the harness which includes: power, RPM, the dash cable, and a RPM2 cable (for hookup as a wheel speed sensor).  I wrapped the harness wrap in 1/2” convoluted tubing, and fastened it with 5/8” adel clamps and self drilling/tapping screws.  I took the RPM signal off the back of the instrument cluster.  Looking at the face of the instrument cluster the RPM signal is located just below the left hand connector.  There is a screw labeled TM.  I put a small ring crimp connector on the end of the wire, and attached it underneath the screw.  You need to be careful that the connector doesn’t make contact with any nearby traces on the flex circuit.  Otherwise you’ll lose the tach signal…guess how I know?

I used a piece of 2” aluminum angle to mount the Dash unit.  I had to bend it in a vise to get the right angle.  Then I used some aggressive thread screws to fasten it to the plastic dash.  The next time I remove the dash from the car, I’ll put a backing plate on it.  But these screws hold quite well.  I may use some JB weld also.  Anyway, here’s the finished product.



I also took the time to recover the harnesses in fresh convoluted tubing, then I fastened them to the rocker panels with adels.


The above tasks took longer than you might think.  That only left an hour or so in the day before I took the wife out for dinner.  Anyway, I finally got around to installing the actual duct in my passenger window.  A quick job, hence the reason I haven’t done it before now.



After test driving last week, I realized that the Allview mirror was too close to my head.  I wanted to move it towards the windshield a few inches.  So, I bought some 5.5” Longacre brackets from pegasus ( and a pair of reducers (  I also turned the mirror mounts around backwards.  This gets the mirror very near the original rear-view mirror hanging location.


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